Famed climber Nirmal Purja dies chasing mountaineering record on Broad Peak
Kathmandu, Aug 1 (IANS/WISHAVWARTA) It was not originally part of famous climber Nirmal Purja’s plan to climb Pakistan’s Broad Peak, the 8,051-metre mountain in the Karakoram range. But the opportunity to make history prompted the Nepal-born British citizen to attempt one of the world’s highest peaks — a decision that ended in tragedy when he was killed in an avalanche that struck Broad Peak on Thursday, the company he founded confirmed on Saturday.
“Today, it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak,” Elite Exped, the company founded by Purja, wrote on its Facebook page.
“We have also received confirmation that other members of the expedition sadly did not survive.”
The company said other members of the expedition, including Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa, also lost their lives.
“Our deepest thoughts, prayers and heartfelt condolences are with their families, friends and loved ones,” it said.
Nepal’s Prime Minister Balendra Shah also expressed deep condolences, confirming that all Nepali climbers attempting Broad Peak — Pur Bahadur Gurung (“Yukta”), Kili Pemba Sherpa (“Kilu”), Nima Sherpa, Nawang Thindu Sherpa and Gyalu Sherpa besides Nirmal Purja (“Nims Dai”) — had lost their lives.
“The tragic deaths of six Nepali climbers, including world record-holding mountaineer Nirmal Purja (Nims Dai), along with four foreign climbers on the 8,051-metre Broad Peak — the world’s 12th-highest mountain, located in Pakistan’s Karakoram Range — have left us deeply shocked and saddened,” Shah wrote on his Facebook page.
“Although the physical journey of Nirmal Purja and all the departed climbers has come to an end, their courage, dedication and contributions will continue to inspire generations and remain forever alive in history,” he added.
Shah said that while the mountains reward many with the glory of reaching their summits, they sometimes embrace climbers in their bosom forever.
“Yet, mountaineers remain immortal in history through their courage and dedication,” he wrote.
Purja was part of an expedition on Broad Peak when an avalanche struck the team on July 30.
Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, a member of Nepal’s House of Representatives and Purja’s business partner, had earlier said tracking data showed Purja’s position had shifted after the avalanche — first appearing to have been swept downhill before moving again to the point where the signal eventually stopped.
In 2019, Purja stunned the mountaineering world by climbing all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks in just over six months under his ‘Project Possible’, shattering the previous record of nearly eight years.
By summiting Broad Peak, he hoped to become the first person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice, a goal that motivated him to attempt the mountain.
Before the tragedy, Purja revealed in a Facebook post on July 27 that Broad Peak had not been part of his original plan, as he had intended to climb only Gasherbrum II (G2). However, an opportunity to summit Broad Peak arose, and he did not want to miss the chance to make history.
“This was never the plan. Initially, the plan was to climb just G2. But just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8,000m summits. That’s when it hit me: if I tick off Broad Peak whilst I’m here, only one remains — Cho Oyu. Then I become the FIRST person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice. Without oxygen,” he wrote.
But his dream of making history ended in tragedy.
Born in Nepal’s Dhaulagiri region and raised in Chitwan, Purja served for 16 years in the military, including six years with the British Gurkhas and a decade with the United Kingdom’s elite Special Boat Service (SBS), becoming the first Gurkha to join the special forces unit.
Purja took up mountaineering only in 2012 after trekking to Everest Base Camp while on military leave. In 2018, he set a world record by climbing Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu in just five days. The following year, he completed all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks in just over six months.
Known for his exceptional ability to acclimatise rapidly at extreme altitude, Purja also led numerous high-altitude rescue missions, earning global recognition not only for his climbing achievements but also for saving lives in the Himalayas.
Elite Exped said the world had lost one of mountaineering’s greatest climbers — a leader who inspired millions through his courage, humility and unwavering belief that human potential is far greater than people often imagine.
“More than his extraordinary achievements, he wanted to show the world what was possible when you dared to dream bigger, believed in yourself and refused to accept limitations. Through his actions, he inspired millions of people to believe that they, too, could achieve more than they ever thought possible,” the company said.
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